Again, that doesn't mean less air moving overall as you mentioned earlier. Air is rushing in to relieve the lower pressure which means air is still flowing. The only way you have less air flow is if you close off any openings entirely. And I didn't imply that the warmer air from the radiator was bad by any means, but it still does contribute to higher GPU thermals. For my build which included the X72 cooling a 9900k and a 2080 Ti, a front mounted rad had my video card peaking at 72C. Mounted above, the video card stayed below 65C. In general, you get more performance increase from lower GPU temps than CPU temps, so that's why I generally prefer a top mounted rad.
Negative pressure doesn't mean less air moving through the case. It means that the negative pressure inside the case wants to be equalized by drawing air through every available opening in the case, which includes through the PCIe slots which unfortunately aren't dust filtered. This means that there will be slightly more dust buildup in the case, but nothing that a simple dusting every month or so won't fix. Negative pressure is actually good for the video card as it will have access to the cooler ambient air from behind the case as opposed to the slightly warmer air coming from the front mounted radiator.
No problem and good luck! :) Also, at 1080p, I'm almost positive that the 2070 Super will deliver real time ray tracing at above 60fps for MW.
A full custom loop with GPU and CPU block, radiators, pump/res, etc. for $250? Is it used? You should really check for corrosion. That is really risky. It may sound like a crazy deal, but that is extremely fishy to me. I would be really careful if I were you. Custom loop parts are expensive for a reason. Cheap parts can damage your loop and system. I mean, if you've done custom loops before and know what you are doing, fine, but if you are new to it, you really need to do a lot more research before you buy a cheap custom loop. Or is that the EK custom loop kit? If it's new, ok, it's a soft tube kit that is a pretty good introduction to custom water cooling. But IMO still not worth it unless you get a better video card first.
So it's real time ray tracing, and it's special effects like ray traced reflections (it's heavily advertised in Battlefield 5 and the upcoming game Control), or global illumination as seen in Metro Exodus, or ray traced shadows as seen in Shadow of the Tomb Raider. To see the difference from traditional lighting methods (rasterization), you should just check out videos on youtube. Basically, rasterization uses tricks to simulate real lighting whereas real time ray tracing is actually rendering the lighting like you would see in real life. Videos showing Metro Exodus on youtube comparing the effects really do the best job at showing the difference. Also, the reflections for Control are stunning (nvidia has a short video on youtube that shows it, looks incredible).
For #2, if you want to run real time ray traced effects for the upcoming MW at 1080p, the 2070 Super is probably your best bet (at least as far as the minimum). You might be able to get away with the 2060 Super, but we really don't know exactly what the system requirements will be for the game since it's still a year away. I would opt for a better card at a slightly higher price to give you some headroom, and also to allow you to fully max the settings and keep a locked 60fps. Non RTX cards like the GTX 1080 or 1080 Ti will have a lot of trouble with ray tracing as they don't have the dedicated ray tracing cores like the RTX cards have built into them.
Very similar to a previous build I had. The H700 case fans are definitely adequate for the case and it does have decent enough air flow. I had a 9900k and 2080 Ti in the H700 with the default case fans and X72 Kraken cooler and it was honestly great.
You don't need to purchase any additional fans, and two 140mm fans are not better than three 120mm fans. While 140mm fans are generally more efficient at moving at air lower RPM than 120mm fans, going down to two fans from three pretty much negates that advantage.
As for the X72 fans, they are Aer P radiator fans, and they are quite good. I wouldn't recommend replacing them as not only are they already good enough, but you may run into fan control issues when plugging them into the X72's fan plugs. The way that water cooling works is that the fan speeds are based on the liquid temp, so plugging the fans into the X72's pump will allow it to regulate the fan speeds accordingly. If you use another manufacturer's PWM fans (such as be quiet! Silent Wings fans, they are notorious for not playing nicely with other PWM fans, I have tried this myself), you won't be able to control the fan speeds and thus will not have optimal use of your cooler.
If you are set on replacing the case fans (do not replace the X72 fans), you could go for noctua fans as they are generally very good in noise to performance. They are pretty expensive though. Be Quiet Silent Wings or Pure Wings fans are also very good, but I would recommend the non high speed versions, and maybe even the 3 pin DC instead of the 4 pin PWM (I've had the high speed fans go wonky on me and spin up to max and slow down for no reason... noisy, creepy, and annoying). If you want RGB, Thermaltake Riing or Corsair LL120 RGB fans are really nice, but super expensive.
Well, it is going to support real time ray tracing, so if you want that, you will definitely need to upgrade your video card. Really, it depends on your preferred graphics settings. If you turn down anti aliasing, you can gain a lot of performance. While it will likely be pretty taxing at maxed settings, you will still probably be able to achieve 60fps at 1080p if you tweak your settings. Adding a custom loop to your system is likely not going to add much, if any performance.
Also, it is a LOT more expensive than a 2070 Super. That card will cost you $500 for the reference version, maybe $550-$575 for an overbuilt AIB partner card with a good cooler on it. A custom loop with a D5 pump/res, CPU block, GPU block, radiator, fittings, 90 degree adapters (if any), tubes, drain valve (should get one for maintenance), coolant, and tube bending kit (tube cutter or saw, silicone tube insert for bending, heat gun, reamer) will set you back around $1000 after tax. It's also risky unless you do a lot of research first. I've spent at least 5 hours watching different tutorial videos and at least another 5 reading articles on EK's website. Now I'm feeling pretty comfortable with the idea of building my own custom loop, and that's only because I spent so much money on my system that I can't really upgrade it anymore (9900k and 2080 Ti).
So I would say to skip on the water cooling until you have parts that would benefit a lot more from overclocking and just get a better video card for cheaper. For under $900, you can get the upcoming 2080 super (an AIB partner card as the reference version will be cheaper). Definitely upgrade your video card first.
Running all games at max settings is very taxing, even for the very best systems. You should first of all learn how to optimize settings as running games on max just for the sake of maxing is rather pointless. One example is running games with max anti aliasing at 4k since at that resolution, you would only need like 2x SMAA. Full anti aliasing post processing taxes even the 2080 Ti (which I have). I'd recommend watching some videos on youtube to learn how to tweak your graphics settings (Jayztwocents has a great video on how each setting will affect your in game performance).
Also, you should probably target a specific monitor and build your system around that target resolution and refresh rate (frame rates). For instance, I got the Alienware AW3418DW which is a 3440x1440 monitor with 100hz refresh rate. So my target resolution is 3440x1440 and my target frames is 100 frames per second. At high to max settings, the only card that can handle that is the 2080 Ti. With features like real time ray tracing on, I'm down to 60fps or less.
For your main questions: 1) 2080 Ti but it's a lot more expensive; 2) i7-9700k is pretty much as good as an i9-9900k for gaming, just cheaper; 3) you'll be in over your head for custom loop solutions, but an AIO is fine as long as the case you are getting will support mounting the appropriate size radiator (shouldn't take more than a few minutes of research); 4) don't neglect cable management - I stuffed everything into the back side panel and I dunno if something unplugged or what because my system wouldn't boot properly. After calming from my panic and then just managing the cables, everything turned on fine.
To add a bit more to #4, really make sure you take some time to research which parts are best for the money you are spending and the target performance that you are trying to achieve. Some parts are grossly overpriced and generally not worth it unless you are swimming in cash. With a $2000 budget and wanting max performance and RGB, I think you won't be able to do it unless you spend a lot of time looking for deals. My system runs everything maxed at my target resolution but generally under my target frames. I also have a ton of RGB, but I spent around $3500, and that's not including the monitor or peripherals. If you are only going for 1080p @ 60hz (1920x1080 resolution and 60fps), you could probably do with an RTX 2070 Super and i7-9700k. That would save you a ton of money over the 9900k and 2080 Ti which is what I have.
Yeah, that is what I would do if I had the O11 case. If you are just gaming, 5GHz will be easy to maintain even with the silent fan profile in that case. Definitely nothing to worry about.
If mounted on the front of a case as intake, it can handle 5.1GHz at 1.32v and keep it under 80C for synthetic loads. For gaming, it shouldn't surpass 75C (average 65C). If mounted on the top of a case with something like a 2080 Ti dumping heat above, add around 8C to the above temps. This is going with the Silent fan profile in CAM. I used Hydronaut as my paste. The X72 is probably the best 360mm AIO that I've tested and one of the best performing AIOs overall. The stock fans are more than adequate and the six year warranty is unbeatable. I'm just not a huge fan of CAM, but if you just use guest mode, you can get the full functionality of your product without having to create an account or log in and transmit data to NZXT.
No problem, enjoy!
Looks like Newegg is the only one that has it in stock under your budget price. As long as you can get it at that price, sure, it's a good deal with those included fans.
What about consoles though? AMD is supplying both PS5 and Xbox. Is that not a decent market as well?
Really? I've seen plenty of reviews and it's fine. Maybe if you were sticking in a 9900k and 2080 Ti, it might get a bit toasty, but you aren't so you are definitely fine. I would check out at least five different reviews before listening to whoever is telling you it has bad air flow.
You don't care about aesthetics but it must not look bad? You gotta pick one here :P
In any case, the NZXT H500 (or H510 refresh if you can wait a week or two for the release) is pretty good as well. Looks good, pretty decent air flow, great cable management, comes in black, and you can generally find one for around $70-$80 depending on sales.
Unless you are overclocking some high powered parts, you don't really need crazy air flow and the H500 would definitely be enough.
As already mentioned, he is saying that the 240mm AIO won't reach the front panel for mounting. Looks like he had a 360mm AIO (the H150i Pro) installed on the top of the case. He had to move his 360mm AIO to the front and then was able to install the 2080 Ti's 240mm AIO on the top of the case.
For you, you've got an air cooler so you don't have to worry about an AIO being installed on top and conflicting with your 2080 Ti's AIO. He's just saying that you'll likely have to install it on top if you thought to install it on the front. And yes, based on what I've seen with this case's pictures, the front panel is pretty far from the front of the motherboard. Looks pretty spacious and very friendly for a custom loop.
Amazon Prime day is unlikely to give many, if any, discounts on computer parts. They mainly use it for their own products, like Alexa or Fire tablets or whatever else they produce.
As for Newegg, well, if that promo code doesn't expire by Monday, just wait I suppose. If it will expire soon, well, it's only a $20 promo code so it's up to you. That's a pretty great price on that card though. It's never been that low before so it's already a good deal (uh, I mean with regards to the original $1400 price), promo code or no.
Looks like ASUS Prime X570-P or Gigabyte X570 Gaming X. Both are $169 and have two M.2 slots. The Gigabyte board comes with a heat spreader for one of them as well. I can't speak for them being "good" as I haven't really seen many reviews on X570s yet. Maybe wait for some reviews or go with a different chipset?
Then it looks like your only requirements are a couple of M.2 PCIe slots. Just find the cheapest board that has those then. And yeah, those overkill VRMs are pretty pointless for these chips as they don't really overclock much.
What an amazing reply. Yes, education really does solve everything. People just need to be willing to spend a bit of time and do their own research. It's easier to always ask other people for everything, but at some point, especially if you are going to have children, you need to have your own answers.
Cables you need: 24 pin ATX (plugs into motherboard), 8 pin EPS (for CPU, also plugs into the motherboard), 8 pin PCIe (plugs into the video card), SATA cable (plugs into your HDD). Those are the four cables you need that go from your PSU into the parts I mentioned. Those cables are already included in the premade CableMod kits on Amazon. The premade kits are much cheaper than custom made kits from CableMod's website, and they ship immediately. If you order custom from CableMod, you are waiting for them to hand make the cables and shipping from Taiwan (which will cost you an extra $20).
I purchased custom made from CableMod and I would say they are not worth it. It cost me nearly $200 for a 24 pin, two 8 pin EPS, and two 8 pin PCIe. $200 for five cables and shipping. Yes, I got to select custom colors and lengths (default length in most cases is fine) and custom aluminum combs, but the premade Modmesh Pro kits from Amazon are only $105 and contain extra cables. Yeah, you're stuck with colors like white or blood red or black/red, but they still look amazing and don't cost you and arm and a leg. Only you can truly decide whether or not they are worth it aesthetically. They do make for a nicer build, but man, custom made from Taiwan are expensive as hell.
The 2070 Super is right on the doorstep of the current 2080 for the same price as the current 2070 at $500. The 2080 Super is set to come out later this month at the same price as the current 2080 and likely to give the same amount of extra performance (maybe 10-15%). Don't buy any current 2070 or 2080 as those cards have reach their EOL (end of life) already.
Based on videos from Gamers Nexus, der8auer, and a few others on youtube, on anything other than LN2, these chips aren't really going above 4.3, maybe 4.4GHz. For the 3900X, that's still below the stock boost clock rating of 4.6GHz.
At least according to a Tech YES video posted on youtube last night, the stock cooler is pretty good and you won't really notice that much of a performance loss if you are just gaming. Under full load, a 360mm AIO will give roughly 14C better temps and around 100-175MHz better performance, but is it really worth the $150+? I would say not worth it and just use the stock cooler.
It's not designed to maintain positive air pressure at all... Fans in the front as intake or not, the size of the front vents are tiny compared to the size of the exhaust in the rear and top. There's only so much those front 140's can do with that little ventilation. The best use of the front panel is still going to be mounting a 280mm radiator behind it since at least the fans will be used to move some heat from the radiator. Air pressure still looks to be negative and you may as well reinforce that with a 140mm fan at the top.
Oh wow, okay, sorry about that. Didn't know that.
I get around 5 hours a night, maybe 7 if I'm really lucky, but it isn't uninterrupted sleep. Having kids is just bad for your mental health. I'm very irritable when I get up, but after I fully wake, I can usually get calmed back to my normal self.
Before my wife gave birth to our second boy, I was doing so well. Weight training three days a week, hard conditioning twice a week, and sleeping/waking like clockwork (11pm asleep, 7am wide awake and full of energy). Now, ugh. I love my son, but he really messed me up. Just another two years before I can go back to being healthy again.
The main reason why people advise against vertically mounting your video card is because on just about every case, it is pushed up against the glass side panel and chokes the fans causing significantly worse temps. The CableMod vertical mount, however, takes the space of the 7 expansion slots on your case which pushes it closer to the motherboard. Some users have even reported slightly better temps than the standard horizontal mount, though in general, it won't raise temps which is good (don't expect significantly better temps or anything).
While the CableMod bracket will support a triple slot cooler, it won't actually be able to mount since it only supports a two slot I/O shield. This is why you need to purchase the EVGA 2 slot I/O shield. Once you replace it, you should be able to use the CableMod vertical video card mount without any issues.
This is why I purchase most of my parts from Amazon. Regardless of whose fault it is, Amazon will accept it and the refunds come back usually the next day. No need to go through the hassle of calling anyone.
The main discounts that you will see on Prime day are things that Amazon manufactures. Anything that is part of a "smart home" such as the Echo or Alexa devices. Also fire tablets and other Amazon specific electronics. I don't think you'll find discounts on many computer parts.
The NZXT H710? it does look pretty good. I had the H700 myself (gave it to my brother for his build) and the 710 is just a refresh with nice additions (one thumbscrew side panel and USB C front port), so I already know it has good thermals for the 2080 Ti. A good choice if you want to get a slightly larger case.
Well, if you got the O11 Dynamic, the best placement for thermals would be the X72 as side intake and create a vertical chimney effect for the rest of the case with three intake on bottom and three exhaust on top. That would do a really good job in cooling a video card with an open air shroud, but you already have the EVGA hybrid kit installed, so I'm not sure how much better your temps would be. I guess you could stick the 120mm rad in the rear as exhaust. Considering how open that case is, you'd definitely have good air flow, but you'd have to buy more fans too. I do like the case, but if I got one, I'd probably opt for a custom loop myself. I know a lot of people just buy that case, use it for a single AIO and call it a day, but IMO, with that much radiator support and putting fans in all possible slots, it would be so much more efficient and quieter to do a custom loop. If noise is one of your goals, nine fans plus your video card fans is quite a lot.
When I had a 360mm rad in the front, temps would get to around 71-73C maybe, but with the new setup with a 240mm rad on top, it went down to around 67C. To reduce fan noise further (gaming at night when wife is asleep), I lowered my card's power to 90% and it gets to around 65C max (lower fan noise as well). Considering that Gamers Nexus reviewed this case as having the worst GPU thermals, I'm totally fine with this. Honestly, I was considering modding the cooler to use the NZXT Kraken G12 with either a 240mm or even 360mm AIO, but I really don't like the way it would look, and lowering the power didn't really hurt performance by any noticeable margin for me. I also considered the EVGA hybrid kit, but it's only a 120mm radiator. I wish they had a 240 that would cover the entire card (like the Gigabyte Aorus Xtreme Waterforce 2080 Ti) so that you can remove the VRM fan. Looks like it does work well enough though as you lowered your temps considerably with it. You also have a much better card than me. I got the FTW3 Ultra and it barely pushes 2040 under the best circumstances.
It's putting fans on both sides of the radiator. The fans on front are pushing air through the radiator while the fans on back pull air through. Since you had six fans on your list and the case has room for only four, that's what I thought you had in mind for the extra two fans. It could improve temps, but maybe only by 10% at most. Is it worth the price of the extra fans? IMO, not worth it.
What are your actual temps? Is anything overheating? If not, I think you've done a fine job and can leave it at that. Trust me in that I have changed my cooler countless times (X72, H150i Pro, H115i Pro, H100i RGB Platinum) and the orientation on each cooler from front to top to front again (also even the fans on the rads, done push/pull on H150i and H115i, used Noctua and be quiet fans as well). Oh yeah, and I got a new case too (you can see my build, my brother uses some of the extra stuff I kept for his build, that's how much stuff I bought). You'll just drive yourself crazy unless you have a specific target (perhaps under a certain audible noise level at night, or keeping a component from overheating). If your CPU and GPU don't exceed 80C, you are totally fine.
Solid build. I would say in this order: rear exhaust, front intake, top exhaust. The first two would make the biggest difference, any more after that and you get diminishing returns. If you want the best performance and don't care for RGB, Noctua fans are great and quiet, or Silent Wings (Pure Wings if you want to save more money) are very good as well. The case fan market can be hard to sift through. Really depends on your needs (performance, noise, aesthetics) and budget.
Well, Black Friday 2020 is a long ways off, so we have no idea what new tech and cases will be out by then. However, the 8700k and 2080 Ti already exist today and they pair quite nicely together as is. That far along though, I doubt the 2080 Ti will remain the best video card. Also, unless you get the cheapest 2080 Ti with a crap cooler, your S340 Elite will be just fine for it. I'm not sure what people are telling you, but it's an adequate case for your system, there are far worse out there. You don't really need a new case just for a 2080 Ti. I have the Corsair Obsidian 500D RGB SE which Gamers Nexus rated as having the worst air flow for video cards, and I have the 2080 Ti. Temps don't go above 67C and that's at night when the heater is on. During the day, it rarely breaks 64C. I think you might be looking for a problem that doesn't really exist for you yet. Just get your video card upgrade first, and then if you think temps are bad (like 85+ during gaming, temps up to 75ish are still fine), only then should you consider buying a new case.
Why six Noctua fans? The case only supports four. Even if you wanted to do a push/pull which is totally unnecessary for a 9700k, you chose NF-A12 fans which are airflow optimized fans, not the static pressure ones which you'd need for the AIO.
For a CPU cooler, I have a 9900k and the H100i RGB Platinum does the job well and quietly. It can cool the 9900k at 5.1GHz but is a bit noisy. At stock speed when I play at night, I can run the H100i RGB Platinum fans at 50% and it keeps the 9900k at around 60-65C. The H100i Pro on your list is pretty much the same as the RGB Platinum (I just got this version because it was on sale for $129 earlier) so you don't have to buy extra fans for it if you get it.
Based on the resolution and framerate (3440 x 1440 is 1440p ultrawide) and 200hz, I'm guessing he's talking about the new ASUS ROG Swift PG35V monitor that will supposedly cost around $2500. To max out a monitor that expensive, you need to spend a lot more than $2000. My monitor was $900 (Alienware AW3418DW) and my system cost me around $3500 (built myself) and I still struggle to max out my monitor.
The numbers I'm using are the required amount of pixels to be pushed in order to max out the monitor's refresh rate in frames per second.
Impossible. 3440 x 1440 at 100hz already requires a 2080 Ti (my build is exactly this) and there is no way a prebuilt will do it for less than $2500 (and that's an ibuypower or cyberpower system with a crap motherboard and PSU).
Just to give you an idea:
3440 x 1440 x 100 = 495 million pixels/sec (my current build)
3840 x 2160 x 60 = 497 million pixels/sec (4k @ 60 fps)
3440 x 1440 x 200 = 990 million pixels/sec (what you are asking for)
No way you can push that many pixels with a single 2080 Ti and those cards alone are $1200. Good luck finding a prebuilt that can push double.
I use this one in my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3VgzK8/uphere-graphics-card-gpu-brace-support-video-card-sag-holderholster-bracket-anodized-aerospace-aluminum-single-or-dual-slot-cards-black-g205
No problem! Good choice going with the LL120 fans. They look amazing and are very quiet, and for air flow and static pressure they are okay.
So the Lighting Node Pro has two headers which connect to either an RGB strip or the RGB fan hub (which itself has six LED fan headers) each. In iCUE, these will be called Lighting Channels (you will have to click on them to set them up, it's very straightforward and simple). The Lighting Node Pro then connects to the motherboard via an open USB 2.0 header. So far, looks like you got it all correct.
Yes, you can buy two LL140 fans to connect them directly into your RGB fan hub that comes with the 3 pack of LL120 fans. You will need enough fan headers on your motherboard to power the actual fans though as the Lighting Node Pro only controls the RGB LEDs.
In any case, don't be afraid to ask questions. I'm always happy to help, especially since I just did all this myself recently.
No problem! So for the HD 3 pack of fans, it comes with an RGB fan hub and a lighting controller. The fans will all have two sets of cables, one for the power and one for the LEDs. The power goes into your motherboard and the LED cable goes into the RGB fan hub. That hub is then connected to a physical controller that you use to control the lighting (with physical buttons). I'm not certain if you will be able to use iCUE to control the fan speed. If you want to control the lighting via iCUE and not a physical controller, you'd have to have the RGB fan hub plugged into the motherboard somehow but looking at the package contents, I'm not sure if there is any way to do it out of the box. The other option would be to get a lighting node pro or a Commander Pro. The lighting node pro will hook up to one of the USB 2.0 headers on your motherboard and has two RGB channels (each channel can support an RGB fan hub or six LED strips). The Commander Pro is a step up with the same two RGB channels, plus six fan headers for your fan power cables (no need to plug fans into the motherboard) and two extra USB 2.0 headers for other components (like your X72 if you only have one USB 2.0 header on your motherboard). The Commander Pro also hooks up to your motherboard via USB 2.0 header and everything (fan RGB and fan speed) is controlled in iCUE. It's a lot of wires though. You can click my build to see some pics.
So to answer having an extra HD140, if you have a Commander Pro, no problem, just hook the power into the Pro and the LED cable into the RGB fan hub (RGB fan hub connects to one of the LED ports on the Commander Pro). If you don't have a Commander Pro, hook the fan power cable into an open fan header on the motherboard and the LED cable into the RGB fan hub that your 3 pack comes with. Hope you were able to follow everything. I know it's a lot of cables connected to this and that.
Oh, I thought you meant iCUE was giving you that security issue. Okay, well hope you get your problem sorted out. Good luck.
From what you linked, you have 3 SATA powered devices (cooler, SSD, HDD). A single SATA cable with 3 connectors would be enough, but you need to make sure the connectors are spaced far enough apart to connect all of your devices. Or you could just get three SATA cables with a single connector and not worry about spacing. You do have to check cable length, however.
Are you ordering custom cables or do you already have something? Your post says that you want to install custom SATA cables. Do you have them already?
So it sounds like you are going to mount the fans, radiator (which will also have pull fans attached) all onto the front panel. Do you think the front panel will be able to securely mount all of that without too much vibration? The front panel is removable, not like mounting it onto the chassis itself. Also, if you cut a 280mm hole, you need to make sure you leave some panel for the screws to mount everything.
Honestly, if thermals are really a big concern, maybe try running some tests first with just the front panel removed. Maybe just use your case that way? As someone who has tried push/pull on radiators before, IMO it's not worth it. It depends on the quality of the extra fans you use, and the better they are, the more you pay. Plus it really is a case of diminishing returns (maybe 10% decrease in temps at best for the extra fans). Unless you are seriously overclocking your system (like beyond the mild 5% increase in performance), I would stick to one set of good fans on your radiator. And speaking of good fans, the Kraken X62 Aer P fans are good static pressure fans.
Something doesn't sound right. You downloaded iCUE from Corsair's site? Not LINK. Try this: http://downloads.corsair.com/Files/CUE/iCUESetup_3.16.56_release.msi
When you first click on the RAM from the dashboard, it should be on the right side. Or you could just click on graphing and you will see a real time temperature graph on the temperature of one stick.
If you install Corsair's iCUE software you can see your RAM temps. I have Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro sticks (2x 8GB 3200MHz) and they generally go as high as 47C in my system. Definitely warm to the touch even after powering down the system.
At work, have a 17" laptop (maybe 15" viewable) with a 24" monitor (have no idea on specs, it's a cheaper Samsung that my boss purchased). Need two screens because I'm an accountant and work with spreadsheets and Quickbooks. Also always have notepad files open and websites open. With one screen, everything is just so cluttered and tabbing back and forth to log Amazon sales (from Chrome tab) to an Excel spreadsheet just kills me (also kills me that exporting data from Amazon is so crappy that I have to do it by hand).
At home (pics in my build), I have a single 34" ultrawide which is my baby. Built my entire system around it. My desk doesn't have room for another monitor, but I don't need it with the ultrawide. Should probably go for a new desk and chair soon.
Looks like the fan hub that you have in your part list is just for non pwm fans (3 pin DC only). The fans simply plug into that hub and the hub is SATA powered. There is no connection to the motherboard or any controllers at all, so the fans will run at full speed all of the time.
The fan controller (if you are looking at the other button on the same Amazon page) looks like it powers up to 15 fans (5 channels, 3 fans per channel). The speed control is set on a display that goes into a 5.25" bay in your case (looks like the case you selected has it). That's probably the one you will want.