This PC looks fabulous. Gave me some ideas of what mine would look like if I were to get the sleeving for my AIO and light bar upgrade for my incoming Dominator. Really, REALLY nice!
I'm not sure if the H500 is set up exactly the same as the S340 Elite, but there is a small channel between the glass and PSU shroud that I was able to fit my LED strip into. Take a look.
If you look at my most recent build you'll see it. I was able to run all four in that same channel. The bottom LED bothers me because I would like the light diffused, but I'll deal until I figure something out.
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400mhz (4x4) and Western Digital 500GB M.2 NVME SSD incoming :)
The cable management is acceptable for a case without a window, though it would be nice if you could move that fan connector to the top of the motherboard. Like I said, you won't see it and it isn't constricting airflow, so, meh.
And Cougar cases are awful for cable management lol. I've built in two of them. Just re-ran the cables for resale and I made some not so safe decision because I do have a window. I'm not saying it can't be done, it just isn't easy.
Good job. I'm trying to talk my coworker into a build like but his instincts are to "ball out" and spend way too much money. I'll show him this and a few other builds to see that you can build on a modest budget and still come away extremely happy with performance.
Z77 or Haswell boards are going to be hard to find nowadays. I personally would go with an i3-8100 if I were trying to match the performance of the i5 4670k. Honestly, it will be an even more powerful CPU than the one I have, but no overclocking on that processor. If you want to overclock at some point I would suggest the i3 8350k which can be had about $40 more on average in the United States.
If you get the i3-8100, you can basically drop it in any of the newer boards with the LGA 1151 socket, but I would advise against a Z-series board because they are enthusiasts boards that are made for overclocking and the chip will not support it. In turn, If you decide on the i3 8350k I would advise to purchase a Z-series board so that overclocking is not a problem and mostly encouraged in most UEFI for them.
The less expensive route is obviously the i3-8100 and a B-series or H-series board. You'll save anywhere from $60-100 depending on which board you select. The i3-8350k and Z-series board would be more expensive, but you would be able to squeeze more performance out of it when it started to show its age by overclocking.
Going with an AMD processor is not out of the realm of possibility either, but I'm not too familiar with them (that's my next project), so hopefully someone will stumble onto this or perhaps try posting in the forums. I'm sure this site has some great people who would be willing to help also.
If you have any more questions, please feel free to continue asking. Don't feel threatened by how overwhelming all this stuff is. It's ALMOST idiot proof nowadays to build a computer as long as you don't have any compatibility issues and PCparticker is pretty good about sorting those when you build a parts list.
The knowledge will all come with time. Once you get your first PC built you'll want to keep building. You'll learn what a good deal is, what parts are still relevant for what tasks you are trying accomplish, etc. Good luck :)
Absolutely. What processor do you have or intend to get and is there anything you must have such as m. 2 slot, specific color, etc.?
If you were talking about the motherboard I have, yeah, it was a pain to get myself. I purchased it off eBay refurbished, and I took the chance because it was one of the only Z-series boards in black and white. I waited many months for it to pop up anywhere for sell.
I'm in South Carolina so the bad stuff didn't get to us, but it didn't stop everyone from overreacting :p
As far as worthy, that is really subjective. There's places I could've cut some things out (RGB lighting, custom cables, a lower tier graphics card, lesser liquid cooler) and saved about $350 off the price listed and that's probably low balling it.
Just for reference, Best Buy was selling a pre-built with a Ryzen CPU and a 580 for $800+tax ($875 here) . It didn't look anything like this and I'd bet dollars to doughnuts this would smash it in almost anything you threw at it and my part list contains more reliable brands.
To me, it's worth it. When the time comes, I'll sell off the motherboard/CPU/RAM for an upgrade. If you don't "need" the latest and greatest, and most people don't, building with older technology is a good way to save some money but also be happy with performance.
Don't get caught in the first time builder trap: base your parts lists on what you need and maybe a touch higher but don't go for overkill. You'll end up spending too much money and then be sad in a year when you're no longer on the bleeding edge. Technology is going to keep moving.
Very good. I've played Madden (maxed out at 2560x1080) and it never went below 60 (locked framerate), Titanfall 2 (maxed out at 2560x1080) and played well though I forgot to turn on FRAPS, and Forza Horizon Demo, also without FRAPS, and goodness did that game look INCREDIBLE.
I haven't had much time to game. We had a hurricane threaten to come through last week so it was a bunch of boarding up windows and such. I'll definitely get to it soon.
I did overclock the processor and 4.2Ghz was no sweat and passed all the test I threw at it with a relatively low voltage (1.140 I believe).
I can and will do better. First task was getting the other GPU installed and crossfire working. I had tried crossfiring before and had issues so I thought I might be pulling it out again until I purchased the i5, so I didn't tear it down and fix the cable management.
I'll make a concerted effort when I have to remove the liquid cooler...but you are correct, it is a challenge with such little space and so much of the back of the case visible. If I do "too good" of a job it makes the case flex in ways I am not comfortable with.
Yes, they did.
Last picture. They are the same fans just a different color.
Very late, but it is the pump that is noisy. I think it has a loud impeller (according to the internet) but it has seemed to have become more quiet over time.
I would recommend a Antec Kuhler over this model from my personal experience, however, I am very picky. Having paid $20 less for the Zalman it has done it's job well.
It is louder than my Antec Kuhler. I spent hours trying to get the noise to go away but the best I could do was still audible to me. I cannot hear my Antec at all and they are basically the same unit.
Even with all the fans I added, I still hear the Zalman. I am very picky when it comes to noise. If it were a whirring noise, it would be fine, but it is a ticking sound and it annoys me to the point I cannot leave the computer on at all times (the plan in the first place).
Same here. If it is "hot" (which I believe it is) then you don't want to be re-listing it on craigslist. Easy way to get caught up in a charge for possession of stolen goods and be out $700 with no computer.
Choose wisely when a deal is too good to be true.
It is the processor deals. I could've built both of my rigs with i5's instead of i3's for a little more due to the motherboard discounts. Nobody will price match them so I have to wait for deals on each component which can take some time. Everything else I can purchase from Amazon/Newegg tax free.
Don't be intimidated by the closed loop coolers. I've done three of them and they are hard to screw up with the internet as a resource (my stepfather still found a way though). They keep your temperatures lower than the stock cooler as well as being dead silent (the good ones). Look up the Corsair H60. That is probably all you need.
To avoid future problems with aftermarket coolers I would advise you just get a closed loop watercooler (Corsair, Zalmann, Antec, etc.). People around here seem to love the H100 or above by Corsair.
I have an Antec and Zalmann and despite some issues with the Zalmann at first I am finally getting it working "well enough" since Zalmann is not cooperating with an RMA...yet. I am very sensitive to ticking and the Zalmaan has a slight tick to it. If you have more than three fans in the case you probably won't hear it. I got the Zalmann for $35 after rebate, so keep your eyes open for that deal to come around it again, as it does every few months.
Cabling looks fine to me. My theory is that if you don't see what appears to be a rat's nest that is obviously hindering airflow you have done a good enough job. Thumbs up.
Finally, people are going to probably say something about you not wanting to OC and having a K series processor, but as someone who doesn't have a Microcenter near by, and wishes they did, I understand the thought process of buying that processor and mobo combo.
You are correct. I originally had written that the young man should work towards upgrading the video card (first) and PSU (second) but I decided against it because that can be disappointing and cause people to lose motivation.
I deleted it all because it sounded like I was dumping on him or the build which was not my intention and you never know how fragile someone's confidence is.
He has a very good base here to work from. I do believe that he would have had a better experience with an i3 or 6300 CPU because he could have used the extra funds towards a 660/7850/660ti/7870 which he would have immediately noticed.
One way or the other, he would have had to upgrade something later on, so I guess he chose the CPU now, GPU later. Different strokes as they say.
That or an i3 3220 (3225 if you live near a Microcenter) would have saved the day on this build. Way too much money spent on the processor. They aren't as flashy as the unlocked Core processors (6300 and i3's) but they get the job done.
Either way, I hope you enjoy gaming on your new build. I'm sure you will continue to improve upon this as time passes.
SPOILER ALERT: I read it the morning before this was posted and you should CTRL+F "local retail competitor".
Maybe you should read corporate policy for price matching. I have and I have never worked there.
You can try but don't expect them to agree. I even tried during the holidays when Best Buy was price matching everyone. Three different stores and no luck.
There policy for brick & mortar stores is it has to be within 25 miles of them.
I tend to agree with the other posters who would have went with the 3570k, but I would have asked my father to get the CPU/Mobo combo and bought a power supply elsewhere. Still a good build either way and I am not going to vote because I know the feeling when things aren't always optimal when making purchases.
I would do away with the AMD and the high-end CPU cooler and get an i3-3220 and deal with the stock Intel cooler for a little while until you have a chance to upgrade to an i5 or i7. That is just me. You do not really need the water cooler (even though I have one on one of my rigs) for the i3 because it maxes out at 55w and the stock cooler is sufficiently quiet.
You would also save approximately $150 that could be spent elsewhere. Also, no real need for 16GB of RAM at this moment. If you can get 2x4 you would be better off.
These are just my opinions. I have two rigs running i3 3220's and MSI 7850 Twin Frozr III OC edition graphics cards and I can play most everything at 1080p without a problem, and usually Ultra settings with a moderate overclock on the 7850. The 7770 is not going to even approach that. I upgraded from 6770 for this reason.
However, you didn't mention whether you plan to overclock. The i3 will not be overclockable so if you take my route be aware of whether you decide to upgrade the processor later and buy a Z77 board. If you never plan to overclock, buy an H77 board and make sure you don't buy the K variant (3570k,3770k) of processor when that time comes.
As stated, these are my opinions. If you would like to go down the path you are going down, more power to you. It should work out tremendously, but I think you need to find room in the budget to get a 2GB graphics card above the level you are trying to buy now because of the monitor. Whether that be a 660 or 7850 or above, your choice really.
What I'm trying to really say is that the build is not well-balanced. You shouldn't be using an APU with that graphics card for one. You would want an FX processor for a rig that can "play pretty much any game I want", I'm assuming at 1080p.
Sorry for the late post, but the things that need to be addressed first are 1) what resolution are you gaming at? and 2) can you amass parts slowly or do you want to buy it all at once?
If you are gaming at any resolution below 1080p on a single monitor I suggest a Radeon 7770. You can get one for around $100. Also, the i3 3220 would work and give you upgrade paths.
If you can afford to wait for deals a good place to look for deals is slick deals.net or fat wallet. I found out about this place from slick deals.
Also, look at my other build. You don't need the water cooler but I like them and I paid $700 all from Newegg in one shot, besides the mouse and keyboard which I bought at Costco. Just sub out the liquid cooler for a 4 pack of Cougar fans (they are silent and move a lot of air) and pick your case of choice and with a 7770 you'll be around $600.
My girlfriend plays Minecraft on 360, so we haven't.
I like the card. I haven't overclocked the one in the PC my girlfriend is using because I have been doing other upgrades and ironing out kinks while she is at work. A friend gave us some new RAM and the CPU cooler is infuriating me with its noise.
However, in my other build I overclocked the card to the levels on that page and ran FurMark passes and Kombustor passes each for a 45 minute scretch with no artifacts or BSOD's.
The only game I've really played on it is SimCity so far because I wiped everything and haven't gotten around to re-downloading on Steam. SimCity runs great at default settings on the overclocked card but can chug a little on the one that is not.
That is a great power supply that can run above spec and still be okay, but you will probably never get that far. You will probably never even hear the fans. I haven't so far.
What he said about the liquid cooler, and it was $30 after rebate. This one is quite a bit louder than the Antec Kuhler though, which I do not like. The girlfriend doesn't seem to mind though.
Right now the build with more components maxes out at 270 watts under Prime95 and Kombustor running with the GPU overclocked. I'll do some test when I get the new unit moved and hooked up to its UPS. I might just move that power supply into one of the h77 builds.
Came free with the motherboard.
Updated with better cable management! (Last two pics)
Says the guy who is gonna build his computer with a Diablotek power supply. Good luck buddy. You obviously know ABSOLUTELY nothing about power supplies and while I'm not a genius in that field, I know to invest more money than thirty dollars to power a thousand dollars worth of equipment, or even $670 from your saved build. Do some research on efficiency and in particular this power supply, then come back and make an informed post.
I'll let the rest of your post speak for itself considering you don't know what a SATA dock is. Troll elsewhere or learn something because honestly I can't tell whether you're trying to make trouble or just not that smart.
Sapphire or Powercooler? I was going to get the Sapphire version 7870LE but as I said, things change. This was gonna be a i5 3570k, ROG board, 7870LE but SimCity changed all that.
They had a good deal on the PC 7870LE not too long ago ($220 I think) but what stopped me from getting it is I had never heard of PC before. Apparently, they've been around and people seem to love that card.
You're selling this around me. Small world.
Exactly what I was thinking about Haswell. Prices should drop to a point where maybe I won't have to drive six hours to get a deal on an i5. Let's hope so and thanks for the reply.
I will try and fix the cables come next Monday. I was running on a Q8300 that came with an Asus retail computer before this, so I know the feeling of tight budgets. Thanks for your kind response.
Thanks. Getting the i5 is just a matter of time on both PC's. I'm buying the same motherboard and processor for the other PC, then when I can finally convince myself to drive six hours to get to a MicroCenter I am going to get two 3570k combos with H77 boards so I can use the 3220's in with Silverstone cases as content boxes (we're getting rid of cable soon).
I'll probably give the cable management a run when the parts for the other PC come in (has to be by March 4th, SimCity releases March 5th...lol).
If you say so. I go for quality and adaptability rather than the bare minimum.
For instance, I am building another computer with almost the exact same specs. So, I need a power supply that can crossfire when the 7850 no longer can cut the mustard, because I will have two MSI 7850 OC's. I move one from the other PC into this one and then buy another, more powerful, standalone GPU to put in the other computer and I keep both at about the same quality for much cheaper.
The cooler is for sound purposes. This computer is in a living room. It will also allow me to overclock WHEN I upgrade the processor.
The wired adapter came from my previous PC and I added it in as I didn't want to lowball the price any more since I already have a DVD burner, BluRay player, and 750GB 7200rpm HDD in the computer from my previous PC.
The fans were on sale and IF I ever decide to overclock will help keep heat down. Before I installed the fans I was four degrees higher in system temps. This allowed me to overclock the GPU even more than the stock overclock without worrying about heat.
Finally, the case is the best part in the entire build. It has limited room to hide cables, but it has a SATA docking station on the top, USB 3.0 at the front, HDD AND SSD trays to make adding more things a snap and great airflow.
That is why the title is UPGRADEABLE PC. It is a work in progress. I could have built this computer for way less and put garbage parts in it or built it for a specific purpose, but that is not how I do things.
Just a little food for thought: I didn't have to send in a single mail-in rebate for any of these parts (I despise MIR). I literally paid $862 for it (Newegg and Amazon, Shoprunner and Prime).
Thanks for your opinion though.
Also, thank you :)
This was built with upgrading to a 3570k/3770k within the next year. Honestly, I probably would have built it with a 3570k and 7870 LE if my girlfriend and I wouldn't have loved the SimCity beta so much. Had to pivot and try to squeeze out another computer rather than putting all the resources into one.